Dover Town Guide: Mills, the Cochecho River and Downtown

Dover does not get the attention that Portsmouth does, and that is part of its appeal. It is a working small city on the Seacoast with a brick mill district, a river that runs right through downtown, a train station on the Amtrak line, and a main street full of independent restaurants and shops. If you are looking for things to do in Dover NH, the short answer is: walk the river, look at the mills, eat well, and leave time for a park. This guide covers the history that shaped the city, the places worth your time, and some of the local businesses in our directory.

Dover at a glance

Dover is the county seat of Strafford County. The 2020 census counted 32,741 residents, which puts it among the larger cities in New Hampshire. It sits a short drive northwest of Portsmouth and close to the Maine border, and Amtrak's Downeaster stops at the Dover Transportation Center on its run between Boston's North Station and Portland, Maine. That makes Dover one of the easier New Hampshire towns to reach without a car.

The city's claim to fame is age. In 1623, brothers William and Edward Hilton settled at Pomeroy Cove on Dover Point, where the Bellamy and Piscataqua rivers meet. That first settlement makes Dover the oldest permanent settlement in New Hampshire and the seventh oldest in the United States. Early settlers built fortified log houses called garrisons, which gave Dover its nickname, "The Garrison City." You will see the name all over town, on schools, businesses and the hill above downtown.

The Cochecho River and the mills

Over time the center of the town moved inland from Dover Point to the falls on the Cochecho River. The river drops about 34 feet there, and that drop provided water power. The name Cochecho is commonly said to mean "the rapid foaming water" in the Abenaki language. You will see it spelled both Cochecho and Cocheco around town; both are in use.

The falls first powered sawmills for Dover's timber trade. In the 19th century they brought the Industrial Revolution to the city in a big way. Cotton textile manufacturing actually started about two miles upstream, with the Dover Cotton Factory, incorporated in 1812 with its mill built in 1815. Later, the big brick mills went up at the falls in the center of town.

Those mill buildings still define downtown. Today they hold offices, apartments, restaurants and businesses, and the best way to appreciate them is on foot. Stand near the falls, look at the long brick walls rising above the water, and you can picture how the whole city was organized around this one spot on the river.

Henry Law Park

Henry Law Park is a grassy waterfront stretch along the Cochecho in the center of the city, on the site of old printery buildings that were demolished in 1913. It has a playground and is an easy place to stop between downtown errands. On a summer morning it is a good spot for coffee and a few minutes by the water.

Families: the Children's Museum of New Hampshire

The Children's Museum of New Hampshire is in downtown Dover, a short walk from the river. It is a hands-on museum aimed at young children, with exhibits, programs, classes and summer learning offerings listed on its website. It is one of the most reliable rainy-day options on the Seacoast for families with small kids.

Parking near the museum can change with city construction, so check the museum's website for current parking directions before you go. The museum posts its hours and admission there too.

Arts and evenings downtown

Dover's downtown is compact enough that an evening plan can be a short walk from dinner to a show. The Strand on Third Street presents live theater, concerts, movies, comedy and other events, and it posts its schedule online. It is a good example of the kind of small venue that keeps a downtown lively after dark.

For a museum with a different flavor, the Woodman Institute Museum is also in Dover. It is one of the institutions Wikipedia lists alongside the Children's Museum as part of the city's civic life. Check its own website for what is open when you plan to visit.

Garrison Hill

Garrison Hill rises directly above the center of the city at an elevation of roughly 290 feet. There is a park on top with a lookout tower. It is not a big climb by White Mountains standards, but it gives you a view over the city and the surrounding countryside, and it makes a nice short outing in summer or fall.

Where to eat and drink

Downtown Dover has a deep bench of independent restaurants, cafes and bars. A few places from our directory to know about:

• Empty Pint Brewing. A small brewery in the heart of Dover, on Second Street. The brewery describes itself as a 4-barrel system and brews a wide range of styles, from IPAs and pale ales to stouts and sours, with a rotating tap list. It is a neighborhood taproom rather than a big production brewery, which is part of the charm.
• Garrison City Provisions. A specialty grocery on Franklin Plaza downtown. Its guiding idea, in its own words, is to highlight outstanding products. It is a good stop for picnic supplies before heading to Henry Law Park or out to the coast.

Dover's restaurant scene changes, so check each business's website or social media for current hours before you go, especially on Mondays and Tuesdays when many small places are closed.

Slowing down: yoga and wellness

If your trip is meant to be restful, Dover has a few good options downtown.

• Bending Bodhi. A yoga studio located in downtown Dover. The studio says its mission is to create a safe, accessible and inclusive space for people to explore yoga, and it lists classes, beginner sessions, restorative yoga and teacher training on its website.
• Vada Wellness. A spa on Central Avenue offering massage, body treatments and other services. Its website lists the current service menu and booking.

A class in the morning, lunch downtown and a walk along the river is an easy and relaxed way to spend a summer day in Dover.

How to plan a day in Dover

Here is a simple plan that works in most seasons:

1. Morning. Arrive by car or on the Downeaster. Walk from the station into downtown and get coffee. Take a morning yoga class or head straight to the river.

2. Late morning. Walk the mill district and the falls on the Cochecho. Spend time in Henry Law Park.

3. Lunch. Pick one of the downtown restaurants, or put together a picnic at Garrison City Provisions.

4. Afternoon. With kids, the Children's Museum. Without kids, drive up Garrison Hill for the view, or visit the Woodman Institute Museum.

5. Evening. A flight at Empty Pint Brewing, dinner downtown, and a show at The Strand if something is on.

Getting around

• By train. Amtrak's Downeaster stops at the Dover Transportation Center, which makes a car-free day trip from Boston or Portland realistic.
• By car. Dover is a short drive from Portsmouth, Durham and Rochester, and it pairs well with a Seacoast weekend.
• On foot. Downtown is compact. Once you park, most of what this guide covers is walkable, except Garrison Hill, which is easier by car.

Pairing Dover with the rest of the Seacoast

Dover works as a base or as a stop. Portsmouth is the obvious pairing, with its harbor, historic houses and restaurants. Durham, home of the University of New Hampshire, is next door. Hampton Beach and the coast are within an easy drive. If you are staying in Portsmouth for a long weekend, Dover makes a good half-day trip that feels a bit less crowded than the harbor city in the height of summer.

Practical tips

• Check hours. Many small businesses keep limited hours early in the week. Always check before you go.
• Parking. Downtown has garages and street parking. If you are visiting the Children's Museum, check the museum's site for its current parking guidance.
• Seasons. Summer and early fall are the best times to walk the river and climb Garrison Hill. In winter, the museum, the theater and downtown restaurants carry the day.
• Accessibility. Downtown and Henry Law Park are mostly flat and easy to walk.

FAQ

Why is Dover called the Garrison City?

Early settlers built fortified log houses called garrisons, and the name stuck as the city's nickname.

Is Dover the oldest town in New Hampshire?

Yes. The Hilton brothers settled at Dover Point in 1623, which makes Dover the oldest permanent settlement in New Hampshire and the seventh in the United States.

Can you get to Dover by train?

Yes. Amtrak's Downeaster stops at the Dover Transportation Center, with service to Boston's North Station and Portland, Maine.

What are the best things to do in Dover NH with kids?

The Children's Museum of New Hampshire, Henry Law Park's playground, and the view from Garrison Hill.

How many people live in Dover, NH?

The 2020 census counted 32,741 residents.

Sources

• Dover, New Hampshire, Wikipedia (2020 census population; 1623 settlement; Garrison City; Cochecho Falls and mills; Henry Law Park; Garrison Hill; Downeaster): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dover,_New_Hampshire
• Children's Museum of New Hampshire, official site: https://childrens-museum.org
• The Strand, official site: https://www.thestranddover.com/
• Empty Pint Brewing, official site: https://www.emptypintbrewing.com/
• Garrison City Provisions, official site: https://www.garrisoncityprovisions.com/
• Bending Bodhi Yoga, official site: https://www.bendingbodhi.com
• Vada Wellness, official site: https://www.vadawellness.net