Gorham and Berlin: The Androscoggin Valley Overview

Gorham and Berlin sit side by side on the Androscoggin River, where the White Mountains meet New Hampshire's North Country. Most travelers know Gorham as the place where US 2 and NH 16 cross on the way to somewhere else, and Berlin as the mill city a few miles upriver. Both deserve more time than that. Between them they offer the most direct access to Mount Washington from the north, a river valley built by railroads and paper mills, and a set of outdoor businesses that stay busy in every season. This guide covers the things to do in Gorham NH and Berlin that hold up year after year, plus places from our directory to book.

The Androscoggin Valley at a glance

Gorham is a town in Coös County. The 2020 census counted 2,698 residents, and its central village lies between the two intersections of US 2 and NH 16, along the Androscoggin River. Parts of the White Mountain National Forest fall inside the town's south and northwest, and Moose Brook State Park is on its west side. Tourism is a principal business.

Berlin, a short drive north on NH 16, is the only city in Coös County and the northernmost city in New Hampshire. Its 2020 population was 9,425. Because Quebec is less than 60 miles away, many Berlin residents are of French Canadian descent, and a local variety of New England French, known as Berlin French, is still widely spoken. The city's name is pronounced BUR-lin, a change that dates to World War I.

The river ties the two together. The Androscoggin runs 178 miles from northern New Hampshire through Maine to Merrymeeting Bay. Its steady drop of about eight feet per mile made it a strong source of water power, which is why Berlin grew into a mill city. The river was once badly polluted by mills along its banks and helped inspire the Clean Water Act; it has improved a great deal as industry changed and cleanup work took hold.

How the railroad built Gorham

Gorham was a quiet place of rocky farms and small logging operations until the St. Lawrence and Atlantic Railroad, later the Grand Trunk, arrived in 1851. Sitting roughly halfway between Montreal and the New England coast, Gorham became a railroad town with a major locomotive yard. The trains brought tourists too. Hotels opened in the village, and visitors rode from the station to the Glen House in Pinkham Notch and on to Mount Washington.

That history still shows in the town's role as a junction. Gorham's village sits on the river where US 2 and NH 16 meet, and the mountain attractions lie to the south along NH 16, the road into Pinkham Notch.

Mount Washington from the north

The Mount Washington Auto Road is the signature attraction of the valley. Originally the Mount Washington Carriage Road, it opened to the public in 1861 and runs 7.6 miles from NH 16 to the summit, climbing 4,618 feet at an average grade of 11.6 percent. You can drive it yourself in a private vehicle or ride up on a guided tour, and drivers who pay the toll get the well-known "This car climbed Mt. Washington" bumper sticker. The road's own site lists self-drive trips, guided tours, sunrise and sunset options, and a SnowCoach in winter, when the upper road is closed to cars.

The summit road is seasonal and weather-dependent, so check the road status on its website on the day you plan to go. Conditions at the top can be very different from those at the base.

Across NH 16 from the Auto Road, Great Glen Trails Outdoor Center in Pinkham Notch runs bike rentals, running and walking trails, and kayaking. Its most popular trip, according to its website, is a guided wildlife kayaking tour on quiet stretches of the Androscoggin River. In winter it shifts to snow sports, with season passes for its trail network.

Wildcat Mountain and Pinkham Notch

Just south in Pinkham Notch, Wildcat Mountain rises on the east side of NH 16 near Mount Washington. Its vertical drop of 2,112 feet is the second largest in New Hampshire, and its 2.75-mile Polecat trail is the longest ski trail in the state. The base sits at about 1,950 feet, and its position near Mount Washington brings more than 200 inches of natural snow in a typical year, so the ski season usually runs from mid-November into early May. Wildcat has been owned by Vail Resorts since 2019, and the Epic Pass is valid there. The resort's site recommends buying lift tickets in advance because they are limited.

Even if you do not ski, the drive through Pinkham Notch is one of the best in the state, with the Presidential Range on one side and Wildcat on the other.

Moose watching

The North Country is moose country, and evening is the time to look. Rather than driving unfamiliar back roads after dark yourself, you can let Gorham Moose Tours do the driving. The company runs bus tours out of Gorham and reports a 93 to 97 percent success rate for spotting moose. It also runs a small number of fall foliage tours each autumn. Tours sell out, so book ahead.

Snowmobiles and ATVs

Gorham sits on a large network of snowmobile and off-highway vehicle trails. Northeast Snowmobile and ATV Rentals rents Polaris snowmobiles with helmets, GPS and insurance included, and its website describes riding across more than 1,000 miles of New Hampshire and Maine trails. When the snowmobile trails are not open, it rents side-by-side machines instead. The company's site posts trail status for each of its locations, so check it before you plan a ride, since winter trail openings depend entirely on snow.

Where to stay

The Glen House is a hotel at the base of Mount Washington on NH 16 in Pinkham Notch. The name carries a long history: in the railroad era, visitors traveled from Gorham's station to the Glen House in Pinkham Notch on their way to Mount Washington. The current hotel presents itself as a four-season base camp, with an on-site restaurant, the Notch Grille, and event space for weddings and meetings. Its location puts you minutes from the Auto Road, Great Glen and Wildcat.

Our directory lists other Gorham and Berlin lodging, from motels to campgrounds. Moose Brook State Park, on Gorham's west side, is another option for campers; check the New Hampshire State Parks website for its season.

Berlin: a short side trip

Berlin rewards an hour or two. The city is home to the Berlin and Coös County Historical Society's Moffett House Museum and Genealogy Center, Heritage Park, the Berlin Fish Hatchery, and White Mountains Community College. Its history runs much deeper than the mills: people camped in the area around 11,000 years ago, and later the Eastern Abenaki came to Mount Jasper to quarry rhyolite for tools. The town was first granted in 1771 as Maynesborough, but was not settled until the 1820s.

Today Berlin's character comes through in its French Canadian heritage, its churches and its riverside setting, with the White Mountain National Forest reaching into the city limits.

A season-by-season plan

Summer and early fall: drive or ride the Auto Road, paddle the Androscoggin with Great Glen, and take an evening moose tour.

Mid to late October: the Auto Road's summit season winds down, foliage peaks and fades, and trails get quieter. Check each business's website for its late-season schedule.

Winter: ski Wildcat, ride the trails on a rented snowmobile, or book a winter trip at Great Glen.

Spring: a quieter time of year in the valley. Wildcat's ski season usually runs into early May, while dirt roads and trails can turn muddy as the ground thaws.

Getting there

Gorham sits where US 2 and NH 16 meet. From the south, NH 16 runs north through North Conway and Jackson, over Pinkham Notch, and into Gorham. From the west, US 2 comes in from Jefferson and Randolph. Berlin is a few miles north of Gorham on NH 16.

FAQ

What are the best things to do in Gorham NH?

Driving or touring the Mount Washington Auto Road, paddling or biking at Great Glen Trails, an evening moose tour, and skiing at Wildcat in winter.

Is Gorham in the White Mountains or the Great North Woods?

Both, in a sense. Gorham is in the White Mountains, with national forest land inside the town, and it is the gateway to the North Country around Berlin.

How long is the Mount Washington Auto Road?

It is 7.6 miles from NH 16 to the summit, climbing 4,618 feet.

How do you pronounce Berlin, New Hampshire?

BUR-lin, with the stress on the first syllable.

Sources

• Gorham, New Hampshire, Wikipedia (population, geography, Moose Brook State Park, railroad history, Glen House): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gorham,_New_Hampshire
• Berlin, New Hampshire, Wikipedia (population, Berlin French, pronunciation, history, attractions): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Berlin,_New_Hampshire
• Androscoggin River, Wikipedia (length, gradient, water quality history): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Androscoggin_River
• Mount Washington Auto Road, Wikipedia (length, elevation gain, 1861 opening, bumper sticker): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Washington_Auto_Road
• Mt. Washington Auto Road official site (self-drive, guided tours, SnowCoach): https://mt-washington.com/
• Wildcat Mountain Ski Area, Wikipedia (vertical drop, Polecat trail, snowfall, Vail ownership): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wildcat_Mountain_Ski_Area
• Wildcat Mountain official site (advance lift tickets): https://www.skiwildcat.com/
• Great Glen Trails Outdoor Center official site (kayak tours, bike rentals, winter passes): https://greatglentrails.com/
• Gorham Moose Tours official site (tour success rate, foliage tours): https://gorhammoosetours.org/
• Northeast Snowmobile Rentals official site (rentals, trail status): https://www.northeastsnowmobile.com/
• The Glen House official site (location, Notch Grille, events): https://www.theglenhouse.com/
• Mud season, Wikipedia (thawing ground and muddy roads): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mud_season