A Long Weekend in the Great North Woods

Above the White Mountains, New Hampshire changes character. The towns get smaller, the forests get bigger, and the roads follow rivers and lakes toward the Canadian border. This is the Great North Woods, the top of the state, and it rewards visitors who come for more than a day. A long weekend is about the right length: enough time to drive the lakes, eat well in a couple of small towns, and spend real time outdoors without rushing.

This guide lays out a Great North Woods weekend in three parts, moving from the Connecticut Lakes in the far north to Colebrook and Dixville Notch, and then down through Errol and Milan along the Androscoggin River. Use it as a framework and adjust for the season and your interests.

Getting Oriented

The Great North Woods region of New Hampshire lies within Coös County, the northernmost county in the state. Coös is also the least populated county in New Hampshire, with 31,268 residents at the 2020 census, and its county seat is Lancaster.

Distances here are real. Towns are far apart, cell service can be spotty, and services thin out after dark. Fill the tank when you have the chance, carry a paper map or downloaded offline maps, and plan meals ahead rather than counting on finding something open late.

Day One: Pittsburg and the Connecticut Lakes

Start at the top. Pittsburg is the northernmost town in New Hampshire and the largest town by area in all of New England, making up about 3 percent of the state's land. Only about 800 people lived there at the 2020 census. U.S. Route 3 is the only major highway through town.

The Connecticut Lakes are the reason most people make the drive. They are a chain of lakes at the headwaters of the Connecticut River, the longest river in New England, all within Pittsburg's boundaries but far from the town center. The northernmost stretch of U.S. Route 3 runs past them on its way to the Canadian border near Third Connecticut Lake, and Connecticut Lakes State Forest adjoins the lakes. Driving north on Route 3 and stopping at pullouts and boat launches along the way is a fine way to spend a morning, and the farther north you go, the wilder it feels.

For a more active day, Northern Terrain Adventures in Pittsburg offers e-bike rentals and sales in summer and fall and guided snowmobile tours in winter. An e-bike is a good way to cover more ground on back roads without exhausting yourself, especially if your group has mixed fitness levels. Ask about where you can and cannot ride before you head out.

Fishing is another classic Pittsburg activity. If you plan to fish, make sure you have a valid New Hampshire fishing license and check the current regulations for the water you plan to fish, since rules vary.

Day Two: Colebrook and Dixville Notch

Colebrook is the main town of the region's northern half, with about 2,084 residents at the 2020 census. It sits on the Connecticut River, which forms its western boundary across from Vermont, and it is home to the Beaver Brook Falls Natural Area.

Stay at the Keazer Farm Bed and Breakfast, a restored farmhouse dating to around 1840 on 400 acres of woods and fields. The inn has four rooms with private and semi-private baths and serves a full country breakfast using its own fresh eggs and maple syrup. Its website notes that the farm is minutes from Diamond Pond, Coleman State Park, Dixville Notch and the village of Colebrook, which makes it a convenient base for the middle of this trip.

In the afternoon, visit the Great North Woods Center for the Arts, which presents music, theater, art and history in the North Country. The property's story begins in 1789, when a family built a log cabin and log barn there. Since then, according to the center, the site has served as a family farm, a seminary, the Hampshire Inn and the Shrine of Our Lady of Grace. It is listed on the New Hampshire State Register of Historic Places. Check the center's schedule for performances during your visit.

For dinner, head to Coos Brewing Company in Colebrook, which calls itself a small brewery in the Great North Woods that makes beer by hand and serves food with fresh ingredients. Check its current hours before you go.

If you have time, make the short drive east to Dixville Notch. This tiny community sits at about 1,800 feet at the base of the mountains and had just four residents at the 2020 census. It is best known nationally as one of the first places to report its results in the New Hampshire presidential primary. The notch itself is dramatic, with steep rock walls close to the road.

Day Three: Errol, Umbagog and Milan

On the final day, head south toward the Androscoggin River. The Androscoggin is a 178-mile river that runs through New Hampshire and Maine before joining the Kennebec River at Merrymeeting Bay in Maine.

Errol is the gateway to Umbagog Lake, a wilderness lake that straddles the New Hampshire and Maine line. Its name is said to come from an Abenaki word for shallow water. The correct pronunciation stresses the second syllable: um-BAY-gog. Paddling on Umbagog is the highlight of many North Woods trips; if you go, watch the weather, because wind on a big lake can raise rough water quickly.

While you are in Errol, stop at L.L. Cote, a family-owned store that has served the area since 1986. It has more than 50,000 square feet of retail space across eight departments, including hardware and lumber, fishing, archery, firearms, clothing and footwear, and country decor. It bills itself as the home of the white moose, and it is the kind of place where you can find nearly anything you forgot to pack.

Continue south to Milan for two pieces of ski history. The Nansen Ski Jump, nicknamed the Big Nansen, stands along Route 16. Built in 1936, it was the largest ski jump of its time, and it is now part of the Nansen Ski Jump State Historic Site, a state park with a picnic area and a boat launch on the Androscoggin. The jump is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

The Nansen Ski Club describes itself as the oldest continually operating ski club in America. The volunteer-run club grooms Nordic ski and snowshoe trails at Milan Hill State Park and is working to restore the Big Nansen, which it says hosted the first Olympic jumping trials in 1938. In summer, Milan Hill State Park itself is worth a stop. The 102-acre park has a 1932 fire tower and camping.

When to Go

Summer brings the longest days, warm lake water and full schedules at seasonal businesses. Fall is beautiful, with foliage across the region, and winter belongs to snowmobilers, cross-country skiers and ice anglers. Spring is the quietest time; back roads can be muddy, and some businesses keep reduced hours, so call ahead.

Whatever the season, the North Woods are a place for unhurried travel. Build slack into your plans, drive carefully at dawn and dusk when wildlife is most active on the roads, and leave room for the unexpected detour.

Packing and Practical Tips

• Bring layers. Even summer evenings in the North Woods can be cool.
• Pack insect repellent. Black flies and mosquitoes can be intense in late spring and early summer.
• Download maps before you leave. Cell coverage is limited in much of the region.
• Book lodging ahead. There are fewer rooms than in the White Mountains, and popular weekends fill.
• Respect private land. Much of the forest is working woodland, so follow posted signs and gate rules.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many days do you need in the Great North Woods?

A long weekend of three days lets you see the Connecticut Lakes, Colebrook and Dixville Notch, and the Errol and Milan area without rushing.

What is the northernmost town in New Hampshire?

Pittsburg, which is also the largest town by area in New England.

Where is the Nansen Ski Jump?

Along Route 16 in Milan, within the Nansen Ski Jump State Historic Site.

How do you pronounce Umbagog?

um-BAY-gog, with the stress on the second syllable.

Sources

• Coos County, New Hampshire, Wikipedia (northernmost and least populated county, county seat): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Co%C3%B6s_County,_New_Hampshire
• Pittsburg, New Hampshire, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pittsburg,_New_Hampshire
• Connecticut River, Wikipedia (longest river in New England): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Connecticut_River
• Connecticut Lakes, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Connecticut_Lakes
• Colebrook, New Hampshire, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colebrook,_New_Hampshire
• Dixville Notch, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dixville_Notch
• Androscoggin River, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Androscoggin_River
• Umbagog Lake, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Umbagog_Lake
• Nansen Ski Jump, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nansen_Ski_Jump
• Milan Hill State Park, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milan_Hill_State_Park
• Nansen Ski Club official site: https://www.skinansen.com/
• Northern Terrain Adventures official site: https://northernterrainadventures.com/
• The Keazer Farm Bed and Breakfast official site: https://thekeazerfarm.com
• Great North Woods Center for the Arts official site: https://www.gnwca.org/
• Coos Brewing Company official site: https://www.coosbeer.com
• L.L. Cote official site: https://llcote.com