Laconia and Meredith: A Late-Fall Lakeside Weekend

Summer on Lake Winnipesaukee is loud and busy: boats, beaches, Bike Week in June and packed roads on every weekend. Late fall is a different lake. The water goes steel gray, the docks empty, the hills around the shore lose the last of their color, and the towns of Laconia and Meredith take a breath. For anyone who wants the lake without the crowds, the weeks between foliage and ski season are an underrated time to visit. This guide covers a late-fall lakeside weekend in the Lakes Region, built around two towns and four places to stay from our directory.

The lake, in numbers

Lake Winnipesaukee is the largest lake in New Hampshire. It is about 21 miles long and covers roughly 69 square miles, with a famously ragged shoreline full of bays, coves and islands. Laconia and Meredith sit on its western side a short drive apart on Route 3.

Laconia: a city of four waters

Laconia is the Lakes Region's only city, with 16,871 residents at the 2020 census. It lies between Lake Winnipesaukee and Lake Winnisquam, and all or part of four bodies of water fall within its limits: Winnipesaukee, Winnisquam, Opechee Bay and Paugus Bay. The city includes the villages of Lakeport and Weirs Beach.

The Belknap Mill

The single best indoor stop in Laconia is the Belknap Mill downtown. Built in 1823 to manufacture textiles and running by 1828, it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is the oldest unaltered brick textile mill in the country. It is now a museum. Check its website for current hours before you go.

Weirs Beach out of season

Weirs Beach is the heart of summer in Laconia, with its boardwalk and arcades. In late fall most of the seasonal businesses are closed, but the shoreline is still worth a walk, and the views up the lake are wide open without the summer traffic.

Where to stay in Laconia

Lake Opechee Inn and Spa is a boutique lakefront inn in Laconia with fireplace suites and an on-site day spa. In late fall, a fireplace room and a spa treatment are the whole point of the trip.

Meredith: a village built on a waterfall

Meredith is a resort town of 6,662 residents (2020 census) at the head of Meredith Bay. Meredith Village, the commercial center, sits at the junction of Route 3 and Route 25.

The village has an unusual origin. Between 1816 and 1818, John Bond Swasey built a 600-foot rock-lined canal that redirected the outflow from Lake Waukewan and created a 30-foot drop at what is now the Mill Falls Marketplace. That waterfall powered sawmills, gristmills, cotton mills and, in 1895, the Meredith Electric Light Company. The mills are gone, but the falls and the buildings around them are the center of the village today.

Mill Falls

Mill Falls at the Lake is a collection of four lakeside inns on Meredith Bay, with shops and restaurants alongside. Also on Meredith Bay, Church Landing at Mill Falls is a lakeside inn with a full spa and dockside dining. Staying at Mill Falls puts the village, the bay and the marketplace within a short walk.

A Victorian alternative

Meredith Inn Bed and Breakfast is a Victorian inn on a quiet street in downtown Meredith, steps from the bay. It suits travelers who prefer a small, personal stay over a resort. Its season runs from spring through fall, so confirm late-season availability before you book.

More in Meredith

Meredith is home to the Winnipesaukee Scenic Railroad, and the town is one of the ports of call for the MS Mount Washington, the lake's best-known cruise boat. Both are largely seasonal. Check their schedules before planning around them.

A late-fall weekend plan

Friday evening. Check in at Mill Falls or the Meredith Inn and walk the village after dark.

Saturday. Spend the morning walking Meredith Village and the waterfront. Drive to Laconia for the Belknap Mill and lunch downtown. In the afternoon, walk the shore at Weirs Beach. Come back for a spa appointment and dinner.

Sunday. Take a slow drive along the shore before heading home. With the leaves down, the water shows through the trees along much of the route, and pull-offs are easy to find without summer traffic.

Why late fall works

• Quiet. The summer crowds are gone, and roads and restaurants are calmer.
• Spa and fireplace season. Lakeside inns with spas and fireplace rooms make the most sense when it is cold outside.
• Clear views. With the leaves down, you can see the lake from roads and paths that are screened in summer.
• A pause before ski season. Late fall sits between foliage and winter sports, which can mean easier availability at inns.

Packing for a late-fall lake weekend

Late fall on Winnipesaukee rewards preparation. Bring a warm, windproof layer for walks along the water, a hat and gloves for evenings, and sturdy shoes for wet leaves and uneven shoreline paths. If you plan to walk any wooded trail, pack something blaze orange. A thermos of coffee makes a long lakeshore stop far more pleasant. And because many businesses run shorter hours this time of year, keep a list of the places you want to visit along with their current hours, checked before you leave home.

Making the most of the quiet season

The appeal of a late-fall lake weekend is that there is nothing you have to do. Pick one indoor stop, one long walk and one good meal a day, and leave the rest of the time open. Locals will tell you the lake is at its most peaceful once the boats come out of the water, and an unhurried weekend is the best way to see what they mean.

What to know before you go

• Seasonal closures. Many Lakes Region attractions, cruise boats and some restaurants close or cut back their hours after the summer and fall seasons. Check each business's website or call ahead.
• Hunting season. Late fall is hunting season in New Hampshire. If you walk in the woods, wear blaze orange and stay on marked trails.
• Weather. Late-fall weather on the lake can turn quickly, and wind off the water makes it feel colder. Pack warm layers.
• Book the spa ahead. Spa appointments can fill on weekends even when rooms are available.

FAQ

Is Lake Winnipesaukee worth visiting in late fall?

Yes, if you want quiet. Most summer attractions close, but the lake views, the villages and the inns with spas and fireplaces make for a relaxed weekend.

How big is Lake Winnipesaukee?

It is the largest lake in New Hampshire, about 21 miles long and roughly 69 square miles in area.

What is the Belknap Mill?

A textile mill built in 1823 in downtown Laconia, now a museum. It is the oldest unaltered brick textile mill in the country.

How far apart are Laconia and Meredith?

They are a short drive apart on Route 3, close enough to stay in one and spend a day in the other.

Where should I stay for a quiet lake weekend?

For a resort feel, Mill Falls at the Lake or Church Landing in Meredith. For a small inn, Meredith Inn. For a spa getaway in Laconia, Lake Opechee Inn and Spa.

Sources

• Lodging blurbs and seasons: NHTG directory listings.
• Lake Winnipesaukee, Wikipedia (largest NH lake; length and area): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Winnipesaukee
• Laconia, New Hampshire, Wikipedia (2020 census; four waters; Belknap Mill; Weirs Beach; Bike Week): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laconia,_New_Hampshire
• Meredith, New Hampshire, Wikipedia (2020 census; Swasey canal and Mill Falls; railroad; MS Mount Washington): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meredith,_New_Hampshire
• Lodging details: each property's directory listing and official website.