Manchester Town Guide: Millyard, Museums and Elm Street

Manchester is the largest city in New Hampshire, and most visitors pass through it on the way somewhere else: the airport, the lakes, the mountains. That is a mistake. The city has a 19th-century mill district on the Merrimack River, one of the best art museums in northern New England, a restored 1914 theater, and a downtown that rewards a slow walk. This guide covers the things to do in Manchester NH that hold up in any season, plus places to eat and stay from our directory.

Manchester at a glance

Manchester sits on both banks of the Merrimack River in Hillsborough County. The 2020 census counted 115,644 residents, which makes it the most populous city in the state and in northern New England. It is about an hour north of Boston by car, and Manchester-Boston Regional Airport is on the south side of the city.

The city grew around the Amoskeag Falls, where the river drops sharply. That drop powered the industry that built Manchester, and the story of that industry is still the best way into the city.

The Millyard: where Manchester began

The Amoskeag Manufacturing Company was, at its peak, the largest cotton textile plant in the world. It employed about 17,000 people, and its long brick mill buildings still line the east bank of the Merrimack for more than a mile. The company closed in the 1930s, but the buildings survived and now hold offices, a college campus, restaurants and museums.

Walking the Millyard is the single best free thing to do in Manchester. Start near the Commercial Street end, follow the canal-side rows of brick, and look across the river at the west-side mills. The scale explains a lot about New Hampshire: the mills drew workers from rural New England, Quebec, Greece, Poland and beyond, and those communities shaped the city's churches, neighborhoods and food.

Inside the Millyard, the SEE Science Center is a hands-on science museum that is a reliable stop with children, and the Millyard Museum, run by the Manchester Historic Association, tells the mill story in more detail. Check each venue's website for current hours before you go.

The Currier Museum of Art

The Currier Museum of Art is the cultural anchor of the city. Its collection of American and European art includes works by Picasso, Matisse, Monet, Georgia O'Keeffe and Andrew Wyeth. The museum also owns the Zimmerman House, a Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Usonian home on the property, which it opens to visitors on guided tours.

Give the Currier at least two hours. It is compact enough to see in an afternoon but deep enough that repeat visitors keep finding something new, especially when a special exhibition is up. Tours of the Zimmerman House are separate and usually need to be booked ahead, so check the museum's site before you plan around one.

Elm Street and the Palace Theatre

Elm Street is Manchester's main commercial spine, running north-south a few blocks above the river. The downtown stretch has the city's densest mix of restaurants, bars and shops, and it is the easiest part of Manchester to explore on foot.

A block off Elm, the Palace Theatre on Hanover Street opened in 1914 and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It presents a full season of musicals, plays and concerts. Even if you do not see a show, the facade is worth a look on a downtown walk.

Where to eat in Manchester

Manchester's food scene runs from old-school institutions to newer, chef-driven rooms. Two from our directory show the range.

• 900 Degrees is a wood-fired Neapolitan pizzeria in downtown Manchester, a dependable choice before or after a show at the Palace.
• Chez Vachon is a long-running French-Canadian kitchen on Kelley Street on the west side, known for poutine and comfort plates. It is a good reminder of the Franco-American families who came to work the mills.

Downtown has many more options within a few blocks of Elm Street. If you are visiting on a weekend evening, reserve ahead where you can.

Where to stay

Most of Manchester's hotels cluster downtown and near the airport. For something with more character, the Ash Street Inn is a restored Victorian inn on a quiet residential street in the heart of the city, within reach of downtown.

Staying downtown or close to it means you can walk to dinner and the Palace, then drive out the next day toward the lakes or the Seacoast. Manchester is a practical base: Concord is about 20 minutes north on I-93, and Portsmouth is about an hour east on Route 101.

Unwind and get around

After a day on foot, Chill Spa in Manchester offers customizable massage and facials. It works well as the second half of a museum day.

If you are flying into Manchester-Boston Regional Airport and do not want to rent a car, Granite State Limo runs private car and limousine service from the airport to destinations around the state.

Manchester by season

Manchester works year-round because most of its best stops are indoors. In spring, when trails in the mountains are muddy, the Currier, the Millyard and the downtown restaurants are a better bet than a hike. In summer, the riverbank and the outdoor seating along Elm Street come into their own. Fall brings foliage to the hills around the city, and winter is theater season at the Palace. Whatever the month, the Millyard is the one stop that never changes: the brick is the same in January as in July.

A simple one-day plan

1. Morning: start at the Currier Museum of Art while you are fresh.

2. Late morning: drive or walk down to the Millyard and follow the mill buildings along the river.

3. Lunch: downtown, off Elm Street.

4. Afternoon: SEE Science Center or the Millyard Museum if you have kids or a history fan with you; otherwise a longer downtown walk.

5. Evening: dinner downtown and a show at the Palace Theatre.

If you have a second day, use Manchester as a jumping-off point for Concord, the Seacoast, or a hike in the Uncanoonucs just west of the city in Goffstown.

Tips for visiting

• Parking. Downtown has metered street parking and several garages. The Millyard has its own lots.
• Timing. Museums and theaters set their own hours and seasons. Always check the official website the week you visit.
• Getting there. I-93 and I-293 loop around the city, and Route 101 links it to the Seacoast.
• Accessibility. The Millyard is flat and easy to walk, which makes it a good outing for most mobility levels.

FAQ

What is Manchester, NH known for?

Manchester is known for the Amoskeag Millyard, once the site of the largest cotton textile plant in the world, and for being the largest city in New Hampshire. It is also known for the Currier Museum of Art and the Palace Theatre.

How many people live in Manchester, NH?

The 2020 census counted 115,644 residents.

Is Manchester, NH worth visiting?

Yes, especially for history, art and food. A day covers the Millyard, the Currier and downtown; a weekend lets you add a show and a side trip to Concord or the Seacoast.

What is the best free thing to do in Manchester?

Walking the Millyard along the Merrimack River. The mill buildings are free to see from the street and the riverbank.

How far is Manchester from Boston?

About an hour by car under normal traffic, via I-93.

Sources

• Manchester, New Hampshire, Wikipedia (2020 census population; Amoskeag Manufacturing Company): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manchester,_New_Hampshire
• Amoskeag Manufacturing Company, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amoskeag_Manufacturing_Company
• Currier Museum of Art, Wikipedia and currier.org: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Currier_Museum_of_Art
• Palace Theatre (Manchester, New Hampshire), Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palace_Theatre_(Manchester,_New_Hampshire)