A Weekend in the Monadnock Region

The Monadnock Region in southwestern New Hampshire is the kind of place that rewards a slow weekend. It has one famous mountain, a string of classic New England villages, a small city with a college-town feel and a long history of artists and writers who came here to work. This Monadnock weekend plan is built around two easy days: one centered on the mountain and Peterborough, the other on Keene and the hills toward the Connecticut River, with local businesses from our directory to anchor each stop.

Why the Monadnock Region works for a weekend

The region is compact and close to the cities. Mount Monadnock lies about 62 miles northwest of Boston, and Peterborough is 38 miles west of Manchester and 72 miles from Boston. That means most visitors from southern New England can leave on a Friday evening or a Saturday morning and still have two full days on the ground.

It also has range. In a single weekend you can climb a mountain that has been called one of the most frequently climbed in the world, sit in a 1950s lunch car diner, walk through a town that founded the first tax-supported free public library in the United States and finish with a tasting of locally made spirits.

Day one, morning: Mount Monadnock

Start with the mountain. Mount Monadnock, also called Grand Monadnock, stands in the town of Jaffrey and rises to 3,165 feet. It is the most prominent peak in southern New Hampshire, nearly 1,000 feet higher than any other peak within 30 miles, and it rises about 2,000 feet above the surrounding land. Its bare, rocky summit gives wide views in every direction, a result of fires set by early settlers in the 1800s.

Monadnock State Park covers about 1,017 acres on and around the mountain, and the mountain was designated a National Natural Landmark in 1987. There are no roads to the summit; you have to walk. The park charges a per-person fee in season to park at its main trailheads, so check the state park's site for current details before you go. Long-distance hikers will know the mountain from two trails that pass over it, the 110-mile Metacomet-Monadnock Trail and the 50-mile Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway.

The mountain also has a literary past. Ralph Waldo Emerson and Henry David Thoreau both wrote about it, and Emerson's 1845 poem "Monadnoc" came out of his climbs here.

Practical advice: start early. The summit is exposed, the trails are rocky, and the mountain is popular on good-weather weekends. Bring water, layers and sturdy shoes, and give yourself a full morning.

Day one, lunch: The Peterborough Diner

After the hike, drive north to Peterborough on Route 202 for a late breakfast or lunch at The Peterborough Diner on Depot Street. The diner is a historic 1950s Worcester Lunch Car, and it says it was the first Worcester Lunch Car made in green and cream. It serves breakfast and lunch daily.

A Worcester diner after a mountain is a very New England way to spend a Saturday. Grab a booth and do not rush.

Day one, afternoon: Peterborough

Peterborough is a town of about 6,400 people, and its main village sits along the Contoocook River at the junction of U.S. Route 202 and New Hampshire Route 101. It grew as a mill town, powered by the Contoocook and Nubanusit Brook, and its compact downtown is easy to explore on foot.

The town has an outsized place in American cultural history. In 1833, Peterborough established the first tax-supported free public library in the United States. Its success led the state legislature to pass a law in 1849 allowing towns to fund their own libraries.

For local history, visit the Monadnock Center for History and Culture on Grove Street. The center preserves the area's past and runs changing exhibitions; its site lists exhibits on everything from historical chairs to member art shows, so check what is on during your visit.

Peterborough is also home to MacDowell, one of the best-known artists' residencies in the country. It was founded in 1907 by composer Edward MacDowell and pianist Marian MacDowell, who had bought a farm in Peterborough in 1896. After Edward died in 1908, Marian built the residency into a retreat where artists could work in peace. Wikipedia notes that thousands of artists have worked there, including winners of many Pulitzer Prizes, National Book Awards and other major honors. MacDowell is a working residency, not a museum, so check its events page for any public programs before planning a visit.

Day one, evening: Keene

End the day in Keene, the only city in Cheshire County and the county seat. Keene is home to Keene State College and Antioch University New England, and its downtown has the energy of a college town.

Elm City Brewing Company on West Street is a full-service restaurant and brewery that says it has been brewing beer for more than 20 years. It has mahogany booths, a glass-enclosed sunroom and, in summer, a landscaped patio. The brewery notes that it does not take reservations for the patio, so call ahead if you want an indoor table.

Day two: Chesterfield and the western hills

On day two, head west from Keene toward the Connecticut River. Copper Cannon Distillery in Chesterfield is a family-owned distillery making small-batch bourbon and rum by hand. It offers tours and tastings, which can be booked through its website, and it describes itself as dog friendly. Check its posted hours before you go; small distilleries often open only part of the week.

Pair the tasting with a slow drive. The roads between Keene and the river run through farmland and small villages, and late summer and early fall are the best times to see them.

Season by season

• Late summer: Long days, warm weather and the last of the summer crowds. Start mountain hikes early to beat the heat.
• Fall: Foliage season is the region's busiest time. Book lodging early and expect full trailhead parking on weekends.
• Winter: Quiet villages and snowy hills. Mountain trails can be icy and require proper traction.
• Spring: Mud season on the trails, but a good time for museums, diners and tastings without the crowds.

Planning tips

• Base yourself in Peterborough or Keene. Both are central and have places to eat.
• Book the distillery tour ahead if you have a specific time in mind.
• Check hours for every stop. Small businesses change schedules by season.
• Leave room for wandering. Many of the best Monadnock moments are a general store, a covered bridge or a village green you did not plan for.

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Mount Monadnock?

Mount Monadnock rises to 3,165 feet and is the most prominent peak in southern New Hampshire.

Is the Monadnock Region good for a weekend from Boston?

Yes. Mount Monadnock is about 62 miles northwest of Boston, and Peterborough is about 72 miles away, close enough for a two-day trip.

What is MacDowell?

MacDowell is an artists' residency in Peterborough, founded in 1907 by Edward and Marian MacDowell.

What town has the first tax-supported free public library in the US?

Peterborough, which established it in 1833.

Sources

• Mount Monadnock, Wikipedia (elevation, prominence, distance from Boston, trails, Emerson and Thoreau): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Monadnock
• Monadnock State Park, Wikipedia (acreage, no summit road, fees, National Natural Landmark): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monadnock_State_Park
• Jaffrey, New Hampshire, Wikipedia (Emerson's poem "Monadnoc"): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaffrey,_New_Hampshire
• Peterborough, New Hampshire, Wikipedia (population, location, library history): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peterborough,_New_Hampshire
• Keene, New Hampshire, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keene,_New_Hampshire
• MacDowell official site, About: https://www.macdowell.org/about
• MacDowell residency, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MacDowell_(artists%27_residency_and_workshop)
• The Peterborough Diner official site: https://www.peterboroughdiner.com/
• Monadnock Center for History and Culture official site: https://monadnockcenter.org/
• Elm City Brewing Company official site: https://www.elmcitybrewing.com/
• Copper Cannon Distillery official site: https://www.coppercannon.com/