Portsmouth in Summer: Waterfront, Gardens and Patios

Summer is when Portsmouth is at its best. The harbor is busy, the parks are green, the brick sidewalks around Market Square fill up in the evening, and boats head out to the islands every day. If you are planning a trip to Portsmouth NH in summer, this guide covers the waterfront, the gardens, the cruises and the outdoor arts, plus a few tips for dealing with the crowds.

Portsmouth at a glance

Portsmouth is a historic seaport on the Piscataqua River, which forms the border with Maine. The 2020 census counted 21,956 residents, so it is a small city, but it draws visitors far beyond its size. The river is a tidal estuary with a swift current, and it forms a good natural harbor, which is why the town grew here.

European colonists settled the west bank of the harbor in 1630 and named it Strawbery Banke, after the wild strawberries growing there. The compact, walkable downtown on the waterfront is now full of cafes, restaurants and shops around Market Square. Across the river, the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard, established in 1800 as the first federal navy yard, sits on Seavey's Island in Kittery, Maine.

Prescott Park and the waterfront

Prescott Park is the center of summer in Portsmouth. It runs along the waterfront, with lawns, flower beds and views across the harbor, and it is the easiest place in the city to sit by the water.

The Prescott Park Arts Festival presents summer programming in the park, including a concert series, movies, theater, family music events and community showcases. Its website explains how its reservations and pre-ordering of food work and describes its inclement weather policy, along with the current schedule. Seeing a show outdoors by the harbor on a warm night is one of the classic Portsmouth summer experiences.

We do not list event dates or prices because they change every season. Check the festival's website for the current lineup.

Out on the water

You have not really seen Portsmouth until you have seen it from the water.

Isles of Shoals Steamship Company

The Isles of Shoals Steamship Company runs narrated history tours of Portsmouth Harbor, the Isles of Shoals and the New Hampshire Seacoast. Its vessel, the M/V Thomas Laighton, also runs special event cruises and private charters.

The Isles of Shoals are a group of small islands and tidal ledges about 6 miles offshore, straddling the border between New Hampshire and Maine. They have a rich history. In the mid-19th century, Thomas Laighton and Levi Thaxter opened a popular summer hotel on Appledore Island. Laighton's daughter, Celia Thaxter, became the most popular American female poet of the 19th century. The Oceanic Hotel on Star Island is still in use today. A cruise out to the islands is a good way to understand how long summer visitors have been coming to this coast.

A sail on a gundalow

The Gundalow Company is a Portsmouth nonprofit that operates the Piscataqua, a reproduction gundalow built in 2010 on the grounds of Strawbery Banke. Gundalows were flat-bottomed sailing barges that once worked the rivers of New Hampshire and Maine. They could be up to 70 feet long and used a pivoting leeboard instead of a fixed keel. This gave them a very shallow draft, so they could settle onto mudflats to load and unload cargo. The Coast Guard certified the Piscataqua, and the organization uses it for school programs and public sails. Its predecessor, the Captain Edward Adams, built in 1982 using traditional methods, now sits in the Henry Law Playground in Dover.

A sail on the gundalow is a quieter, slower way to see the harbor, and it comes with a strong dose of local history.

Historic gardens

Portsmouth's historic houses come with some of the loveliest gardens on the Seacoast, and summer is when they look their best.

The Moffatt-Ladd House & Garden is a historic house museum and National Historic Landmark. The 1763 Georgian house was home to William Whipple, a signer of the Declaration of Independence. It was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1968. Visiting the garden in summer is a peaceful break from the downtown crowds. Check the museum's website for current opening details.

Strawbery Banke Museum is also worth a summer visit. It preserves more than 37 buildings from the 17th through 19th centuries in the old Puddle Dock neighborhood, where the tidal inlet was filled in around 1900. The museum opened in 1965, and its grounds make a pleasant summer walk.

Market Square, patios and food

In the evening, life in Portsmouth moves to Market Square and the streets around it. Restaurants open their patios, and the brick sidewalks are full of people walking off dinner. Portsmouth even has an annual Market Square Day, a celebration of the downtown dating back to 1977.

The city has a deep dining scene. One option from our directory is Café Kilim, a small Portsmouth cafe. Check current hours locally before you go, since it does not list a website with us. For more ideas, see our other Portsmouth guides on restaurants, breweries and things to do with kids.

A summer day in Portsmouth

1. Morning. Coffee downtown, then a walk to Prescott Park while it is still quiet.

2. Late morning. Visit the Moffatt-Ladd House & Garden or Strawbery Banke.

3. Lunch. Pick a patio downtown.

4. Afternoon. Take a harbor or Isles of Shoals cruise, or a sail on the gundalow.

5. Evening. Dinner near Market Square and a show at Prescott Park if one is scheduled.

Summer tips

• Parking. Downtown fills up on summer weekends. Arrive early or plan to use a garage.
• Book boats ahead. Cruises and sails can sell out on nice days. Reserve online.
• Bring layers. It can be much cooler on the water than in town, even on a hot day.
• Sun and water. Bring sunscreen and water for outdoor shows and boat trips.
• Weather. Outdoor events have their own weather policies. Check before you go.

Beyond downtown

If you have more time, Portsmouth is a good base for the rest of the Seacoast. Rye and Hampton are close for beaches, Dover and Exeter are short drives inland, and Kittery and York in Maine are just across the river. Portsmouth's location on the river and the coast is what made it a seaport in the first place, and it still makes it an easy place to explore from.

FAQ

Is Portsmouth NH worth visiting in summer?

Yes. Summer is the busiest and liveliest season, with outdoor arts in Prescott Park, harbor and island cruises, and patio dining around Market Square.

What is the Prescott Park Arts Festival?

A summer program of concerts, movies, theater and family events in Prescott Park on the Portsmouth waterfront.

Can you take a boat to the Isles of Shoals from Portsmouth?

Yes. The Isles of Shoals Steamship Company runs narrated cruises from Portsmouth to the harbor and the islands.

What is a gundalow?

A flat-bottomed cargo boat once used on the rivers of the Piscataqua region. The Gundalow Company sails a reproduction, the Piscataqua, from Portsmouth.

When was Portsmouth settled?

European colonists settled the west bank of the harbor, named Strawbery Banke, in 1630.

Sources

• Portsmouth, New Hampshire, Wikipedia (2020 census population; 1630 settlement; Market Square and Market Square Day; Piscataqua harbor; naval shipyard): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portsmouth,_New_Hampshire
• Prescott Park Arts Festival, official site: https://www.prescottpark.org
• Isles of Shoals Steamship Company, official site: https://www.islesofshoals.com
• Isles of Shoals, Wikipedia (Appledore hotel, Celia Thaxter, Oceanic Hotel): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isles_of_Shoals
• Gundalow, Wikipedia (Piscataqua reproduction, Captain Edward Adams): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gundalow
• Moffatt-Ladd House, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moffatt-Ladd_House
• Strawbery Banke, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strawbery_Banke